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Botswana
Issue 7 Number 3

Fall, 2009

 

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Okavango Delta, Botswana 

Botswana, AfricaThis arid and sparsely populated country, lying between South Africa and Nambia and consisting mostly of the Kalahari Desert, has a watery jewel in its northwest corner -- the 12,000 sq/km Okavango Delta is in effect the world's largest oasis, given life by a slight subsidence in the earth's crust at this point.

Fed by the Kavango River coming out of Angola, this area is often called the Okavango Swamps. But "swamp" does not do justice to these crystal waterways, so shallow and clear that one can see small fish fleeing the shadow of your makoro, or dugout canoe.

Rich in wildlife, Okavango is nevertheless not recommended as a gameviewing destination. This is partly because the wildlife is skittish, sections of Okavango being hunting concession areas, but also because one is usually at water level, with game invisible behind tall papyrus reeds. Birdlife, however, is spectacular.

Okavango is unique, with its tranquill, lily-filled lagoons, narrow channels through the papyrus, and islands of tall trees. It is also vanishing, slowly shrinking under the onslaught of cattle now that aerial spraying has all but eradicated the stinging tsetse flies which once kept it safe from domestic livestock.

The Delta contains much the same fish life as the Zambezi River, though both the tigerfish and bream tend to run smaller than those of the Zambezi.

From late September through early November an amazing phenomenon takes place. This is the "catfish run," when falling water levels send millions of these whiskered fish on noisy upstream breeding migrations, during which they prey on smaller fish and literally flatten the papyrus with their numbers.

Though strong and stubborn fighters, catfish are not highly prized by anglers. But at this time of year the very visible catfish runs are followed by schools of voracious tigerfish, which snap up whatever escapes the cats. Lures, spinners, flies, strip fillets -- whatever one throws at such times is instantly accepted by these supreme, razor-toothed predators.

Okavango is usually at its fullest and most beautiful in July/ August, the Southern African winter, when days are warm and clear, nights chilly, and the stars seem near enough to reach up and pluck.


OKAVANGO DELTA...

Geoff and Nookie Randall's GUMA LAGOON LODGE remains our premier fishing operation in the Okavango Delta. Situated in the southwest, on Okavango's largest lagoon and not far from where the Kavango River opens out into the swamps, Guma is a fairly simple operation -- huge, en suite safari tents looking out over the lagoon, electricity, proper beds, great food, great pub -- that makes no pretence of being other than a fishing camp.

A wide range of spinning equipment is carried, and Geoff himself is a keen fly-fisher. Nookie is famous for her meals and spicy condiments (most of them alcohol-based). Being close to the edge of the Delta Guma is not a great game area, but the birdlife is superb. And so, usually, is the fishing.

The past season has been a strange one, with the normal mid-winter run of yellow-belly bream (nembwe) simply not happening -- in Geoff's opinion because of the "non winter" we experienced.

But the annual catfish/tiger runs began on schedule in late September, and in early October Johannesburg's Glyn van Straaten and family had a fantastic week, catching 90 tiger up to 5 kg, (all but five of them released) as well as large numbers of catfish. They got a few bream, though they were too busy chasing tiger to really try for bream.

The following week Sean & Owen McGhee of Barberton were at Guma with two friends, and in three days they caught 39 bream of various species, including nembwe, three-spot and red-breast.

Guma Lagoon Lodge is Paula 465 (about R650) per night, full board (including all drinks) with daily guided boat fishing/game viewing/bird watching. One can fly Air Botswana to Maun (R1 775), and then charter across the swamps to land directly at Guma -- charter costs range from P 405 pp if five pax, to P 2 025 if only one. Or, one drive to within 15 km of Guma, where the lodge collects you and your vehicle is left under guard; tar all the way, so no 4x4 required.

It's a two-day drive from South Africa and we recommend Nata Lodge, between Francistown and Maun, as a good overnight stop. And don't drive after dark on Botswana's roads -- fences are unknown, and cattle/donkeys just love standing on tar roads at night for the warmth coming off them.


GUMA LAGOON CAMP

OKAVANGO, BOTSWANA

Guma Camp is situated in southwest Okavango, overlooking the largest lagoon in the delta. The camp consists of six large safari tents, on concrete platforms under thatch; each tent has electricity and en suite facilities in attached reed boma -- flush toilets, hot showers, etc. Meals are taken at a central pub/dining room, leading onto a platform out over the lagoon; accommodation at Guma is full board, incl. drinks (except bottled wine); hosts Geoff & Nookie Randall are respectively famous for his pub and her table!

Boats are fast, open aluminium craft, approx 6 metres, with 50/70 hp outboards. Fishing in the lagoon can be good, especially for various bream species, but the best tiger fishing is usually in the main river, 30 minutes away by boat. Geoff is an expert angler and knows his waters well. The lodge carries a full range of spinning and other tackle.

COST: Guma Lodge is R596 pps pd, fully inclusive, with guided fishing. Children and non fishing pilots - 50%, single supplement is charged only if camp is full. Birdlife in the area is excellent but wildlife limited.

GUMA also has a self-catering section accommodating eight people in four tents, serviced daily, linen provided, at R65 per person sharing. Boats are then not included -- R654 per boat per day, including driver, fuel, lunch, baits, tackle if required.

Meals may be taken at the lodge by prior arrangement -- Pula 45 dinner, 30 lunch, 20 breakfast (approx R124 per day.)

GETTING THERE ... BY AIR - One can fly Jhb/Maun (R1 775 plus R73 airport tax), with AIR BOTSWANA, and then charter across the delta from Maun with Mack Air -- return charter flight price depends on group size: R555 if five pax, R684 if four pax, R872 if three pax, R1 287 if two pax and R2 535 if only 1 pax.

... OR BY ROAD - One can now drive to within 15 km of Guma on good tar roads (290 km from Maun). Your vehicle is left under guard in the village of Etsa, and the lodge collects you -- by boat in wet years, by 4x4 in dry.

If driving, we strongly recommend you make it a two-day drive; do NOT drive in Botswana after dark, too many animals on the roads. We recommend overnight at Nata Lodge, approx 250 km past Francistown and about 10 km before the town of Nata. That leaves you 300 km to Maun, and then 290 km to Etsa.

NOTE: Compulsory govt tax of P10 pp pn at main camp, P5 pp at campsite and P5 pp pn for medical Insurance (compulsory for main camp) must be pre-paid in SA.Prices valid as at 15 Apr '98 and are subject to change.
 

Price are subject to change without notice.

$$$ Use the XE.com Personal Currency Assistant for calculating the current exchange rate.
E-Mail us about this destination: info@worldangler.com  

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